LINEN IN ANCIENT TIMES

Flax was the first textile produced by man—the oldest scraps of flax linen were found in prehistoric cave dwellings in the Caucasus and are estimated to be 38,000 years old!

Fast-forward to ancient Egypt in 5,000 B.C.—the Egyptians ran a moneyless economy where, instead of cash, goods were exchanged for other goods of equivalent value. As the textile used for everything from day wear to mummy bandages, flax was a fundamental part of this economy. Absorbent and heat conducting, linen was ideal for the hot Egyptian climate. Even today, flax linen used in Egyptian tombs is well-preserved, allowing us to tell the story of this ancient civilization. The use of mordants—dye-binding chemicals—had not yet reached Egypt, so the linen garments would have been in their natural color or bleached white.

The use of linen garments was echoed in other ancient Mediterranean civilizations, with Romans naming the flax plant “linum usitatissimum,” or the most useed flax.

Two thousand years later, linen went global. The ancient Phoenicians exported linen yarn to Scotland, Persia, India, and China. In the colder regions of Europe, linen was used to make shirts, shifts, and chemises that were worn under wool outerwear. In fact, linen is the origin of the words “lining” and “lingerie.”

Mummy bandage inscribed with a falcon, ca. 1000–945 B.C., found in the tomb of Henettawy in Egypt.

LINEN THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES

Linen production became a family affair in 789, when French king Charlemagne decreed that all households must cultivate flax and weave their own linen fabric. This tradition persisted well into the 18th century, with clothing, bed linen, and domestic textiles all made at home.

THE EUROPEAN “LINEN BELT” 

In 16^th century France, linen artisans clothed French courtiers in fine garments but much of that talent went into exile in the 17th century, when King Louis XIV outlawed Protestants from France. The artisans emigrated to Germany and northern Europe.

With the decline of the French linen industries, a new player emerged on the map—Belgian Flanders, and the town of Tielt in particular. Although Julius Caesar had commented on the quality of Flemish linen as early as 100 B.C., it was in the 18^th century that it truly came into its own. By 1840, 71% of households around Tielt were involved in linen production.

THE DECLINE OF THE LINEN INDUSTRY

Linen production became far easier and cheaper when Philippe de Girard developed the flax spinning machine in 1810, at the start of the Industrial Revolution. However, this was also the beginning of linen’s decline. Despite being less durable than linen, cotton was easier and cheaper to produce at scale. Mainly because of competition from the American slave plantations, and the huge amount of cheap labor that the US hade access to and so became the preferred textile for the industrial era. From the 1850s, the European linen industry went into decline.

However, linen retained niche uses, particularly during the First and Second World Wars, when it was used to make ropes, tarpaulins, and other cloth items requiring strength and durability. The German army cut off supplies of European flax, so swathes of land in Ireland and Australia were set aside for flax farming, with much of it farmed by women.

The upheaval of war also caused notable linen-producing families to return to their homeland, triggering the beginning of a linen renaissance. In the 20^th century, formal summerwear made from linen became popular.

Today—over 2,000 years since Julius Caesar praised its purity—linen is once again the center of attention for its low environmental footprint. The rise of responsible consumerism has led many to reevaluate cheap synthetic and cotton clothing, which comes at considerable cost to the earth.

The Impact of Linen Clothing on Sustainable Fashion

Linen holds a significant place in the history of fashion, revered not only for its stylish appearance but also for its biodegradable nature. It grows quickly and can thrive even in poor soil, using 60 per cent less water than cotton, making it an environmentally friendly choice.

Moreover, every part of the flax plant is utilised in the production of linen, enhancing its affordability and reducing waste. Linen’s complete biodegradability ensures that it does not contribute to landfill waste. Additionally, due to its high absorbency, linen does not retain bacteria, which reduces the frequency of washes, prolongs the lifespan of garments, and consequently, makes wardrobes more sustainable.

Linen’s appeal among fashion designers and brands is growing as they incorporate its natural texture and versatility into various styles and designs. Particularly popular for summer wear, linen’s moisture-absorbing and breathable qualities keep wearers cool and dry.

Thus, linen clothing plays a crucial role in the sustainable fashion movement by offering an eco-friendly, durable, and ethically produced alternative that supports both environmental conservation and social responsibility.