The Chore Coat has its origins in 19th century France - (Image by Heddels)

Explore the world of menswear, whether in the present or at origin of it, you are bound to encounter the chore coat. A cross between a workman's overshirt and a simplified blazer, the chore coat has its roots in 19th century France. There, a cotton drill or moleskine shirt with spacious pockets was dyed using benzoate-based blue, effectively hiding stains from physical labor. Originally known as bleu de travail or "blue work," it has become a staple for farmers, laborers, railway workers, and those who lead a rugged outdoor lifestyle. By the 1920s, French brands like Vetra (short for vetements de travail or "work clothing"), Le Laboureur, and Mont Saint Michel were mass producing what was once a custom-made item, and the coat eventually made its way across the Atlantic.

Trade show display 1898 (Image by Man of the World)

Levi Strauss & Co, has been making their own adaptation of the bleu de travail since around 1880. It was first featured in the brand's catalog as a "Sack Coat" and may have been produced as early as the 1870s. The brand's archive even holds a 67 Sack Coat from 1910, which is the oldest existing example.

Early version of left breast pocket Chore Coat - (Image by Carhartt Archive)

Shortly after, Carhartt adopted the bleu de travail and named it the "Engineer Sack Coat" or "The Coat." While an earlier version from 1917 shares similarities with the bleu de travail, a more modern model was introduced in the Carhartt catalog in 1925, available in sail cloth drill, herringbone twill, and two types of denim. In 1928, it was produced in brown duck, and in the 1930s, the brand added a signature corduroy collar and optional blanket lining. In 1954, a new design featuring a swing back for increased shoulder mobility was introduced, and a notable change in the watch industry occurred: due to the rise of wristwatches, the need for a pocket watch pocket was eliminated (what a pity!).

New York Times columnist and legendary streetwear photographer Bill Cunningham wearing a Chore Coat

The workman's staple, the chore coat, was quickly embraced by other Brands, thus spreading its popularity throughout the United States. Despite the absence of its iconic blue color, the coat maintained its triple-stitched seams, copper rivets, and "blood-proof" pockets for storing game. This garment was not only worn by "blue collar" workers - a term coined in 1920s America for laborers in blue jeans and chore coats - but also by cultural icons. Paul Newman donned one in the 1967 film Cool Hand Luke, while Tupac Shakur wore a chore coat to the 7th Annual Soul Train Awards in 1993. Even legendary streetwear photographer Bill Cunningham, featured in the New York Times, could be seen wearing one while biking around the City well into his 80s.

The classic bleu de travail has evolved, now available in a variety of colors, styles, and fabrics beyond the traditional blue drill. With a slimmer cut, it has become a popular choice among streetwear aficionados, expanding beyond its roots in blue collar workwear. The trend of repurposing utilitarian garments for everyday wear is nothing new, with pieces like t-shirts, field jackets, and even shirts with epaulets having military origins. But as veterans made these items mainstream, they have become ingrained in popular culture, unrecognizable to younger generations as anything other than fashion essentials.